Permanent waving process and apparatus



Aug. 16, 19m

F. KBEzzl-:NBRGER PERMANENT WAVING PROCESS AND APPARATUS 3 Sheets-Sheet l Filed Dec. 3, 1956 INVENTOR. F/)zzneryew BY ATTORNEY.

Aug. 16, 1938.. F. K. BEZZENB'ERGER 2,127,458

PERMANENT WAVING'PROQESS AND APPARATUS Filed Dec. 3, 1936 5 Sheets-Sheet '2 j INVENTOR.

A TTORNEY.

Aug. 16, 1938.

F. K. BEZZENBERGER PERMANENT WAV-ING PROCESS AND APPARATUS Filed Dec. 5, 1936" 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 ATTORNEY.

Patented Aug. 16, 1938 UNITE. STATES PATENT OFFICE PERMANENT WAVING PROCESS AND APPARATUS Application December 3, 1936, Serial No. 114,037

21 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of and apparatus for permanently waving hair. An object of the invention is to provide a process whereby a flat strand of hair may be wound on a mandrel,

beginning at an intermediate portion of the strand and winding a distal portion rst, progressing toward the distal end of the strand, while maintaining the strand in ilat condition and thereafter winding up the inner portion of the strand Croquignole fashion, that is, in substantially true spiral form progressing toward the scalp by rotating the winding mandrel and the previously wound hair.

A further object of the invention is to interleaf with a terminal convolution or portion of a convolution, or even with more than a complete terminal convolution, a piece of thin flexible sheet material whereby to facilitate unwinding the strand in the reverse order to that in which it was wound. I have found that diiliculties arise when it is attempted to unwind the first portion by simply rotating the mandrel in the same way as in unwinding the portion of the strand which was wound Croquignole fashion, although this method of unwinding may be sufiiciently successful when the strand is not maintained flat. By interleaving with a terminal portion of the strand, a piece of cheese Cloth or the like, I am able to unwind the strand after the wave has been produced without difficulty.

I have found that for best results in Croquignole winding,r it is desirable to wind on a spool which tapers from the ends toward the center.

inasmuch as a portion of the strand, according to the present method, is to be wound Croquignole fashion, I prefer to wind the distal portion of the strand in such manner that it may form with the curler rod a spool of such configuration. I also desire to avoid lany abrupt bends in the hair. Accordingly, it is an object of the invention to wind the first turn upon a curler rod which is provided with a depression of helical shape to receive such rst turn, and to wind the remaining turns of the distal portion in such manner as to build up a substantially symmetrical spool or mandrel for the winding of the scalp portion of the strand.

Accordingly, I provide a curler rod of such shape as to accomplish these results, that is, one which is cut away in such manner that when the hair is wound up in the desired shape, a proper winding mandrel composed partly of the curler rod and partly of hair will be presented for winding the inner portion of the strand in Croquignole fashion. The depressed portion of the curler rod above referred to is also useful in preventing longitudinal slippage of the hair on the curler rod. l Providing for such means for preventing slippage of the hair, the provision of a clamp for holding the hair at the beginning of the wind and the provision of a tapered portion to receive the distal portion of the strand and to prevent longitudinal slippage thereof are further objects of the invention.

While it is possible for an operator of great skill to perform the improved process more or less well by the use merely of the curler rod and a comb or similar simple instrument, in the practical application of the invention and in the usethereof by relatively unskilled operators, it is necessary that a winding device be provided for placing the hair on the curler rod. Indeed, it is doubtful whether even an operator of the highest skill would be able without mechanical winding means, to accomplish results as satisfactory as those which I am able to accomplish readily by the use of the winding device herein disclosed.

It is accordingly an object of the invention to produce a novel and superior winding device for laying down the nat hair strand on the novel form. of curler rod.

A further object is to provide a winding device wherein superior tensioning is secured, particularly by the employment of a snubbing action.

A further object is to provide a novel relationship between the winding means and the curler rod wherein the former is guided with respect to the latter. This novel relationship comprises the mounting of the winding means on a guide rod which is received within an axial bore in the curler rod, and also, in the provision of means for regulating in a predetermined manner the rotational and longitudinal motion of the winding means with respect to the curler' rod in a predetermined relationship whereby to lay down the hair on the curler rod in a predetermined manner.

A still further object is to provide for the use of a curler rod which is longer than the protector clamp in combination with which it is used.

Other and more limited objects will be in part apparent and in part pointed out hereinafter in connection with the accompanying drawings wherein Fig. 1 is a sectional View of the winding means and showing the guide roll thereof received in the guide bore of the novel form of curler rod. This View is taken looking toward the operator of the device. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the winding device shown in Fig. 1, the curler rod being removed. Fig. 3 is an end View of the winding device with the curler rod removed and showing the clamping portions of the winding device separated for receiving a strand of hair to be wound. Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing the clamping elements and the tensioning means in clamping position and indicating by dot and dash lines the strand of hair passing through such tensioning means and between the teeth of the comb element which maintains the strand flat and of constant width. Fig. 5 is a schematic` view indicating the first turn on the curler rod. It is to be understood that this view indicates the manner of placing the hair whether the same be done manually or by means of the winding device. Fig. 6 is a second schematic view indicating the interleaving of the fabric beneath the last convolution to facilitate unwinding, this View corresponding substantially to a section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5. Fig. 7 is a schematic view showing the appearance after the distal portion of the hair has been wound up, the fabric interleaved witlr the last convolution and wound around the curl and the inner portion of the strand on the curler rod Croquignole fashion. Fig. 8 is a schematic plan section showing the protector clamp in plan, the curler rod in section, and the hair wound thereon in dotted outline. This view brings out the relative positions of the portions of the curl which have been wound from the intermediate portion toward the end and the inner or scalp portion which has been wound Croquignole fashion. Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 7 but showing a modified form of the device wherein the curler rod is of a length greater than that of the protector clamp. This form is similar to the preceding form but differs in that it is adapted for waving long hair and makes use of a somewhat different type of protector clamp. Fig. 10 is an end View looking from right to left in Figs. 7 and 9 and showing the construction of the protector clamp and its relation to the curler rod. Fig. 11 is an end view looking from left to right in Fig. 9 and showing a special supporting cradle for receiving the Wound curl. This varies from conventional structure in that the entire curl including the hair is received in the cradle, instead of the curler rod only. Fig. 12 is a detail view of the flexible strip which is interleaved with the hair strand. Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 1 but looking at the device from the operators position and showing the guide groove formed in the inner surface of the handle portion of the winding device and the cooperating pin formed on the curler rod and Fig. 14 is a detail view showing the passage between the annular portion of the guide groove and the portion of the inner surface of the handle of the winding device which permits motion without exerting any guiding action further than to prevent escape of the winding device from the curler rod.

Referring now to the drawings, the numeral I0 indicates generally a curler rod of special construction for cooperation with-a Winder, indicated generally by the numeral II, in the performance of thevnovel process. The curler rod may be provided with the usual ratchet surface as indicated at I2 and may be of the usual length of curler rods employed in Croquignole waving as now generally practiced. As will hereinafter appear, this rod may be of a greater length than the usual Croquignole curler rod and without increasing the length of the protector clamp, by the provision of a special cradle as shown in Figs. 9 and 11. Adjacent the ratchet portion I2, the

curler rod is provided with a surface I3 which tapers toward the center of the rod and may be a surface of revolution. Farther toward the center of the curler rod, tne same may be provided with a surface Il which may be also a surface of revolution, of similar taper, and closer to the axis of the curler rod by an amount sufficient to accommodate a strand of hair. The surfaces I3 and I 4 are joined by a helical abutment I5, which however merges with the surfaces by an easy curve. The surface I4 may be regarded as a depression or cut away portion or as a wide thread extending around the curler rod and having a pitch equal to its width so that one turn serves to end the thread.

Positioned at the beginning of the abutment I5 and extending in the same direction as the axis of the curler rod is a holding element I6 which may be pivoted,' as indicated at VI at a middle position on the curler rod, about the end of the abutment or thread. This element may be pivoted to a suitable boss I8. Beyond the boss I8 the curler rod may be a substantial surface of revolution and preferably tapers from the end toward the center as clearly indicated at I9. It will be obvious. that the surface of the curler rod, as above described and as shown in the drawings, may be regarded as a mutilated curler rod derived from the standard symmetrical Croquignole curler rod which tapers toward the center from both ends and, it will be observed, the shape is such that the first turn of hair substantially restores the standard shape of that end of the curler rod which is adjacent the ratchet portion as seen in the drawings.

It will also be clear that by winding the rst turn parallel to the helical abutment I5 and succeeding turns at a smaller pitch or even in substantially true spiral formation, the other end of the curler rod may be built up into .a shape approximating the standard symmetrical curler rod so that the portion of the curler which is wound Croquignole fashion will be wound on a surface approximating that of the standard curler rod. The principal difference, insofar as the Croquignole portion of the wind is concerned, is that the spool, comprising partly the surface of the curler rod and partly the previously wound portion of hair will be somewhat shorter than usual. This however is not objectionable, and in fact, results in a somewhat smoother wind than in the case of the longer spool. Contributing also to the effect of greater smoothness in the Croquignole wind is the fact that the length of the strand which is wound Croquignole fashion 1 is shorter than in normal Croquignole winding.

As will be observed from the drawings, the curler rod I0 is provided with a central axial bore 20 which receives a guide rod 2l forming a por tion of a mechanical winding device. Carried by the rod 2l is a cylindrical handle portion 22 of the winding device which has a central opening 23 adapted to be received over the end of the curler rod I 0. Carried by the ange 20, of the winding device I! is a guiding and tensioning device comprising a rod 25 xed to the iiange 24 and having an upturned end portion 26 and a rotatable element, indicated generally by the numeral 2'I, and comprising a mounting rod 28 extending through the flange 2d and having an upturned handle 29, an arm 33 carrying a friction element 3I adapted to urge the strand of hair against the rod 25 and a combelement 32 adapted to maintain the strand flat and guide the same between the elements 25 and 3|. A spring 33 constantly urges theA arm 30 in a direction to cause the elements 25 and 3| to grip the strand of hair and tol position the comb element in covering relation to the space between the elements 25 and 3l,

guided. i i

As indicated in Fig. 4 by a dot and dash line, the hair passes from thecurler rod lli to the rod 25 and is bent around the same before passing composed of rubber. It is thus clear that the sur'- face of the strand Which is in contact With the' rod 25 will be subjected to a snubbing action While the otherfsurface Will be subjected to the friction of the element 3i Thus the twosurfaces of the strand may be about equally tensioned. By rotating the winding element in a counter clockwise direction, referring to Figs. 3 and 4, and moving the same longitudinally, it will be seen that the hair may be placed on they curler rod in the manner indicated in Fig. 5. The rotational and longitudinal motion. of the Winder may be properly related to each other either by the skill of the operator or by means of guide grooves formed on the inner surface of the element 22 as Will be brought out in connection with Figs. 12 and 13.

As hereinbefore indicated, the winding method i understood however that the preferred procedure is to place the hair on the curler rod in the manner indicated in those figures by the aid of the Winder disclosed in Figs. 1 to 4.

In Fig. 5 I have shown diagrammatically the appearance of the curler rod with one turn of a fiat strand .placed thereon, the `strand .being maintained fiat and of a substantially uniform Width at all points. In Fig. 6 I have shown diagrammatically the approximate appearance in section corresponding to theline `of Fig. 5 of the strand after the distal portion 35 has been Wound to a point Where only a -short portion thereof remains to be wound up. In this view, I

have also shown diagrammatically the introduction of a piece of thin sheet material 35 beneath the last convolution to facilitate unwinding the portions of the strand inthe reverse order of Winding` After the distal portion 34 of the `strand has :been Wound up, the fabric 35 interleaved therewith and Wound up .thereon as indicated in Fig. 'i and secured against unwinding as by means of an adhesive patch 35 or any suitable fastening means, the inner or scalp portion 3l of the strand is Wound up Croquignole fashion and the curler rod Iii having the hair thus wound thereon is secured to a protector clamp 38 of usual construction, which was secured in clamping relation to the strand before the Winding was begun. This protector clamp has the usual clamping jaws '35 and is provided with cradles Ml and 4i for supporting the curler rod. One of the cradles is also provided with a pawl member 52 adapted to cooperate With the ratchet portion I2 of the curlerrod.

trative only and that the precise contour will vary according to the` length of the strand and the whereby the hair willbe accurately variation in the particular manner of positioning the hair adopted by the particular operator.

In Figs. 9 and 11, I have indicated a modified form of protector clamp wherein the cradle 4l is replaced by a cradle 43 adapted to receive the curler rod having hair Wound thereon. This permits the use of a slightly modified curler `rool 44 varying from that previously described in that the portion thereof upon Which the distal portion beneath the friction element 3i, which may been of the strand is Wound has been made longer to accommodate a longer strand of hair.

In Fig. 13, I have shown a modified form of my device, differing from that previously described in that `the portion 22 is provided with guide grooves on its inner surface adapted to receiveI a `fixed projection i5 carried by the curler rod. These guide` grooves may comprise a helical portion 46 beginning at the point il and extending whereby the portion i5 may be inserted `intov starting position. The fragmentary development of Fig. 13 shows the relationship of these passages With the exception of the helical groove 45. It Will be noted that the helical groove 46' opens into the inner groove i8 at the'point 52 Which is 180 spaced from the passages 49 and 5l.

At the beginning of operation, the Winder is placed on the curler rod by registering the passages5| and 49 with the projection 65, then rotating the Winder through 180 to cause the projection 45 to be received in the groove 46, after Which' it is rotated a full turn to starting position. It is to be understood that the passage i5 need not be positioned at precisely 180 from the point 52. It is desirable however that following the rotation to the point that the projection 45 enters the annular groove (i8, a portion of a revolution be Wound Without substantial motion of the Winder toward the end of the curler rod. This rotation of a half, three-quarters or even a full turn serves to bind the helical portion of the strand in firm position .on the curler rod. The

abutment l5 on the curler rod serves to hold the helicaily Wound turn 'of the strand against longitudinal motion, then the overlapping of the second part or whole turn with small or no progress toward the end of the curler rod serves to bind a portion of the helical turn to the curler rod and the taper on the small end of the curler tends to prevent longitudinal motion of the wound curl toward that end. After the binding turn or portion of a turn has been taken, the projection 45 may pass into the relieved portion or Wide groove 50 whereupon the succeeding convolutions may, if desired progress toward the end of the curler rod. It is Within the contemplation of my invention to have the helical groove l5 open immediately into the relieved portion 5l! whereby it Will rest Within the choice of the operator as to how the succeeding convolutions are laid down.

It is to be understood that the pitch of the groove 45 Will be the same as that of the abutn ment I5.

In Fig. 12, I have shown in plan the sheet Inaterial `Which is to be interleaved With the last con volution or convolutions or portion of a convolution of the strand. This may take the form of a strip of cheese cloth or the like. Where a flimsy fabric of this kind is used, it is desirable that the saine be lightly treated with stiffening material such as latex and that the end which is first placed in engagementwith the hair should be stiffened `for a short' distance as-lindicated at 35a. This maylbe done by treating it more heavily With latex or by.l folding a portion `and f' `--then dipping or otherwise treating it with latex,

whereby additional stiffness is imparted thereto. Inasmuch as Fig. 13 includes all the mechanism of Fig. l With the addition of guiding means for accurately laying down the Wound strand of hair,

`-it Will be more convenient to describe the operation in connection with Fig. 13.

The strand of hair to be Wound is firsts'epa` rated in the `usual manner and combed out in flat formation as is usual in Croquignole Waving. The Winder Il is then engaged With the. strand near the scalp, the strand passing between the rod- 25 and the gripping element 3| as indicated by the dot-and-dash'line in Fig. 4. 'Ihe strand is then pulled through between the elements 25 and' 3| for a short distance after Whiehthe curler rod `I is inserted over the guide rod 2l and extended into the handle of the Winder. The curler rod I0 is held in the right hand'of the operator While' the Winder` is manipulatedwith the J left hand.v The Winder is rotated in the direction indicated in Fig. 4 so that the hair is bent over the rod to secure a snubbing action as indicated. The Winding is then continued until the hair has been Wound up to a point near the end "of the strand. At "this point the element is interleaved With the convolutions of the hair as indicated in Fig. 6 and the remainder of the strand is Wound up.-` The Winder is then removed from the rod and the partially Wound strand is 35o-wound up manually in the vsame manner as a Croquignole Wind is normally made.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is:

1. A curler rod having one end portion tapering toward the other end; a portionof the said tapered end portion being defined by a substantial surface of revolution, said surface .terminat-` ing in a generally helical abutment defining the beginning of a surface generally `concentric With said first surface but closer 'to the' center of the rod, the other end portion of said rod beingff smaller than the first mentioned end portion.

3. A curler rod having one end portion tapering toward the other end, a portion of the said tapered end portion being defined by a substantial surface-of revolution, said surface-terminating in a generally helical abutmentfdefining thev beginning of a surface generally concentric With said 1 first surface but closer to the center of the rod, the other endportion of said rod being smaller than the first mentioned end portion, and means for holding a fiat strand of hair in contactiWith said rod with an edge of said strand approxi- Imately at the'junction of said first and second surfaces.

4. A curler rod having one end'portion taper'- ing toward the other end, a portion-of the -said tapered end portion being defined by a substantial surface of'revolution, said vsurface terminat-y ing in a generally helical'abutment defining the beginning of a surface generally concentric With said first surface but closer to the center of the pering toward said first end portion, and means forholding a flatstrand of hair in contact'with saidrodWith an edge'of said strand approximately at the junction of said first and second surfaces.

5. In combination with a. curler rod having a central, axially extending bore, means for Winding hair on said curler rod and comprising an open ended handle portion,l a guide rod secured to said handle therewithin and.projecting from the opening therein, said guide rod being adapted to be rotatably and slidably received Within said curler rod While said handle portion is received over said curler rod and means carried by said handle portion for tensioning, guiding and maintaining flat a fiat strand of hair as it is Wound on said curler rod.

6. In combination, a curler rod having a central,l axially extendingbore, a guide rod rotatably and slidably received in said-bore and hair Winding means carried by said guide `rod and adapted to move around and along said curler rod as said guide rod rotates and slides therein.

7. A curler' rod having vone end portion tapering toward the other'end, a portion-of the said tapered end portion being defined by a substantial surface of revolution, said-surface terminating in a generallyhelical abutment defining the beginning of a surface generally concentric With said first surface but closer to the center of the rod,` the other end vportion of said rod being smaller than the first mentioned end portion, being substantially a surface vof revolution and tapering toward said first end portion, said curler rod having a central, axial bore, a guide rod rotatable and slidable in said bore and hair Winding means carried by said guide rod and adapted to move around and along said curler rod as said guide rod rotates and slides therein.l

8. A curler rod having one end portion tapering toward the other end, a portion of the said tapered end portion being defined by a substantial surface of revolution, said surface terminating in a generally helical-abutment defining the beginningof a surface generally concentric l With said Ifirst surfacebut closer to the center of the rod, the otherend portion'of-said rod being smaller than thefirst mentioned'end portion, and'being substantially a surface of revolution,

said curler rod havingva central, axial bore, a

guide -rod rotatable and slidable in said bore'and hair Winding means carried by said guide rod and adapted to move around and along said curlerrod as said guide rod rotates and slides therein.

9. Permanent Waving process including the steps of grippinga strand of hair adjacent the scalp, holding a curler rod transversely of and in contact With the flat, intermediate portion of said strand, Winding-a first -turn'on said rod in the form of ra helix having a pitch substantially equal to the Widthl ofthe strandwhile maintaining-the strand flat, 'Winding the Ydistal end of the strand in a series of overlapping, fiatA convolutions, progressing toward the. distalend, and then Winding ythev other'end of the strand toward the scalp by Arotating the rod and previously Wound hair.Y

10. Permanentv wavingxprocess including the steps of gripping a strand of hair adjacent the scalp, holding a curler rod transversely of andin contact with a fiat, intermediate portion of said strand, Winding a rst turn on said rod in the form of a helix having a pitch substantially equal to the width of the strand while maintaining the strand ilat and of substantially constant width, Winding the distal end of the strand in a series 'of overlapping, flat convolutions, p-rogressing toward the distal end, and then Winding the other end of the strand toward the scalp by rotating the rod and previously wound hair.

11. Permanent waving process including the steps of gripping a strand of hair adjacent the scalp, holding a curler rod transversely of and in contact with a at, intermediate portion of said strand, winding a first turn on said rod in the form of a helix having a pitch substantially equal to the width of the strand while maintaining the strand fiat, Winding the distal end of the strand in a series of overlapping, fiat convolutions, progressing toward the distal end, the strand being maintained of substantially constant width throughout, and then winding the other end of the strand toward the scalp by rotating the rod and previously wound hair.

12. Permanent waving process including the steps of holding a curler rod transversely of and in contact with a fiat intermediate portion of a strand of hair, winding a rst turn on said rod in the form of a helix having a pitch substantially equal to the width of the strand, winding a portion of the distal end of the strand in a series of overlapping, helical convolutions of substantially equal width and of smaller pitch than said rst turn and then winding the inner end of the strand toward the scalp in Croquignole fashion, making use of a portion of the previously wound hair as a portion of the winding mandrel for the inner end of the strand.

13. Permanent Waving process including the 40 steps of holding a curler rod transversely of and in contact with a fiat intermediate portion of a strand of hair, winding a rst turn on said rod in the form of a helix having a pitch substantially equal to the width of the strand, winding a portion of the distal end of the strand in a series of overlapping, helical convolutions of substantially equal width and of smaller pitch than said first turn, interleaving a portion of sheet material with a terminal portion of the strand and winding it up therewith, and then winding the inner end of the strand toward the scalp in Croquignole fashion, making use of a portion of the previously wound hair as a portion of the winding mandrel for the inner end of the strand.

14. A separator for a terminal, wound portion of a flat hair strand comprising an elongated piece of flexible sheet material having a minor portion at one end stiffened to a greater extent than the major portion thereof.

15. A separator for a terminal, wound portion of a flat hair strand comprising an elongated piece of light weight, loosely woven fabric lightly coated with latex and having a minor portion at one end stiffened to a greater extent than the major portion thereof.

16. In combination, a curler rod having a central, axially extending bore, a guide rod rotatably and slidably received in said bore and hair winding means carried by said guide rod and having a portion provided with a cylindrical inner surface concentric with said guide rod, and interengaging means on said curler rod and said surface for predetermining the position of hair wound on said curler rod by rotation of said winding means.

17. In combination, a curler rod having a central, axially extending bore, a guide rod rotatably and slidably received in said bore and hair winding means carried by said guide rod and having a portion provided with a cylindrical inner surface concentric with said guide rod, and interen gaging means on said curler rod and said surface for predetermining the position of hair wound on said curler rod by rotation of said winding means, said curler rod having a helical depression thereon and said interengaging means comprising a helical guide groove of substantially the same pitch as the helical depression on said curler rod.

18. In combination, a curler rod, hair tensioning and guiding means, means supporting said first means for motion around and along said curler rod, said rst means comprising an element extending longitudinally of said curler rod and presenting a curved surface over which hair may be bent, a friction element adapted to urge the so bent hair against said curved surface and a comb-like element adapted to guide a flat strand of hair between said elements.

19. Permanent waving process comprising the steps of winding a distal portion of a flat strand of hair, in flat formation, progressing toward the distal end from an intermediate point, interleaving with a terminal portion of such distal portion of the strand a flexible sheet and winding it up therewith, then winding the scalp portion of said strand Croquignole fashion, heating such wound strand, with suitable waving solution, whereby to impart a permanent wave thereto, and then unwinding such strand in reverse order as it was Wound.

20. Permanent Waving process comprising the steps of winding a distal portion of a flat strand of hair, progressing toward the distal end from an intermediate point, interleaving with a terminal portion of such distal portion of the strand a flexible sheet and winding it up therewith, then winding the scalp portion of said strand Croquignole fashion, heating such wound strand, with suitable waving solution, whereby to impart a permanent wave thereto, and then unwinding such strand in reverse order as it was wound.

21. Permanent waving process including theV steps of holding a curler rod transversely of a Aflat strand of hair in contact therewith at a point intermediate the ends of such strand, clamping such strand to said curler rod at said point, winding the distal portion of such strand, while maintaining it flat and of substantially constant width, on said curler rod toward the distal end of the strand, arst turn being laid down in the form of a helix of a pitch substantially equal to the width of the strand, and then Winding up the scalp portion of such strand Croquignole fashion.

FREDERICK K. BEZZENBERGER. 

